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Car Care Tips Blog
Spring Showers Bring Driving Safety Hazards PDF  | Print |  E-mail

Spring Showers Bring Driving Safety Hazards

Worn out tires and windshield wiper blades are symptoms of neglected vehicle maintenance that put drivers and passengers at serious risk during the typically rainy months of spring.

Thin tire treads create hazardous driving conditions when water builds up on the roadway, according to the Car Care Council. Deep tread accommodates accumulated water; thin tread does not. Thin tread causes the tire to hydroplane – ride up on a film of water, losing contact with the pavement, similar to driving on ice.

The simplest way to check tire tread depth is with a penny. Insert the penny into the grooves of the tread. If you are able to see all of Lincoln's head, the tire needs replacement.

Rainy weather also affects driver visibility. Because 90 percent of driving decisions depend on good vision, a clean windshield is imperative. Streaking and smearing impair vision and are caused by worn windshield blades. One out of every five vehicles that went through the Car Care Council’s check lanes had worn wiper blades.

"Replacing worn wiper blades is easy and inexpensive," said Rich White of the Car Care Council. "Why put it off until there's a downpour and your blades are chattering and smearing the windshield?"

Last Updated on Sunday, 28 February 2010 21:34
 
Headlight Restoration - 3M products PDF  | Print |  E-mail
The 3MHeadlight Lens Restoration System is designed to restore clarity

to headlight lenses that have become yellowed, cloudy, or hazed over time.

By restoring clarity to the lens you improve the performance of the headlight

and enhance the appearance of the vehicle.

Headlight lenses have either a hard surface layer or a UV resistant coating

on the outer surface of the lens. Once a lens has been degraded by sun or

UV light and becomes yellowed or cloudy, it is necessary to remove that

yellowed layer in order to restore clarity to the lens. The effort required to

refurbish headlight lenses will vary greatly by vehicle manufacturer, year,

make, model, and headlight design.
Large or extremely hazed lenses may

require more than one kit.

With the 3MHeadlight Lens Restoration System, you will use a 1200-

1600 rpm drill equipped with a backup pad and sanding discs to remove

the yellowed layer from the headlight lens surface. A higher rpm drill could

generate excessive heat and can cause damage to the headlight lens that

is difficult to remove. A lower rpm drill does not work efficiently for this process.

Two sanding steps will follow to refine or reduce the sand scratches

that are made when removing the yellowed layer. Finally, 3M
Headlight

Lens Polish and a foam pad will remove the fine scratches and put the final

clarity on the headlight lens.

Consider the condition of your headlight lenses:

• If lenses are 3-5 years old and do not have any yellowing or do not

appear cloudy, do not proceed with the 3M
Headlight Lens Restoration

System.

• This process will not repair moisture, damage, or defects on the inside

of the headlight lens.

• If lenses are yellowed and/or cloudy due to age and weathering, proceed

with this process.

• Larger or extremely hazed lenses may require more than one kit.

Last Updated on Tuesday, 16 June 2009 22:01
 
Maintaining Present Vehicle Makes Financial Sense PDF  | Print |  E-mail

Maintaining Present Vehicle Makes Financial Sense

Although you may want to get rid of your present vehicle in favor of a new car, taking better care of your current set of wheels may make much more sense in the long run-helping you achieve a goal of financial freedom.

"A new automobile is, for most people, their second biggest investment next to a home, so a great way to save money and increase financial assets is to hang onto their current vehicle rather than buy a new one every few years. Budgeting for and doing preventative maintenance on your car is one of the best ways to cut your costs and keep your car.

"The Car Care Council estimates that more than $60 billion in vehicle maintenance and repair is not performed every year, evidence that there is considerably more that consumers should be doing to protect their automotive investments."Whether it's an oil change, replacing brakes or new belts and hoses, that periodic repair bill is a drop in the bucket compared to monthly payments on a new car.

"The bottom line is that a properly maintained vehicle is safe, more dependable, more fuel efficient, less polluting and more valuable. The smartest way to get a solid return on investment is to keep your car through what we call the 'Cinderella Era.' It's that period of time after the payoff when your car is still in great shape and needs only modest repairs.

"Figures from Runzheimer International, a management consulting firm that measures travel and living costs, confirms the Council's claims. Recent studies show that trading a vehicle every eight years instead of every four can save more than $2,481.75 a year after the payoff. That includes repairs and maintenance, license, registration, taxes and insurance. 

Last Updated on Tuesday, 27 October 2009 15:42
 
Keep your old clunker or buy a new car? PDF  | Print |  E-mail

Keep your old clunker or buy a new car?

It may clang and bang, but your despised old car may be the best bargain around.

 By Des Toups

Let's divide the car-buying universe into two camps: those who keep a car until it drops, and those who think a new car will change their lives.

To the first, a round of applause. There's nothing short of the bus that's cheaper than keeping a car until it crumbles into a pile of rust. Almost any car can be nursed to 200,000 miles without endangering your life, and even a new engine is cheaper than all but the cheapest used cars.

To the second, another round of applause, because the millions of new cars they buy every year instantly become used cars soon available at a considerable discount to those in Camp 1. And a moment of silence, because a new car will change their lives in ways they never foresaw on the dealer's lot.

If you're in a drive-until-the-muffler-is-dragging wannabe, read on. We'll look at ways to keep your car on the road longer and realistically weigh the costs of upgrading.

I'd love to keep my old car, but …

  • It no longer fits my life. You may have taken up gardening in a big way but still own a Corvette. You may feel nervous about taking your '78 Ford on a trip to Colorado. Your little Accord may be a tight squeeze when family comes to town. The answer to all: Rent. Why buy a gas-sucking pickup because you visit Home Depot twice a year or a $40,000 sport-utility because you take the kids skiing for a week at Easter? Even at $180 a weekend, renting is far cheaper than a car payment. Plus you get to drive the very latest without worrying about insurance, license tags, maintenance or depreciation. Or try swapping cars with a friend, returning it gassed-up and clean (with the oil changed, too, if the loan was more than a day or two. You want to be able to ask again next year.).

 

  • Those repair bills are really adding up. Then do the math. Does the cost of repairs exceed the cost of a new car? A typical new car is around $28,000; that's about $475 a month for five years after 20% down. A rebuilt transmission might run $1,800, a huge outlay in one chunk, but far less than the $5,700 a year you'd spend on new-car payments alone. If you can't afford repairs twice a year, it's unlikely you can afford a new car payment every month. In any case, anybody with a car older than three years should be tucking aside $50 a month for repairs and maintenance. If the gods smile, you'll never use most of it and you'll have a tidy sum to blow on your next car.
  • I'm nervous driving an older car. Maybe little things are beginning to go: a new thermostat one month, a starter the next. You might simply spend $56 on a AAA Basic membership and carry a cell phone, reminding yourself that even new cars aren't immune to mechanical failure. The upside of frequent breakdowns is that you'll get to know mechanics quite well. Find one you like. Flatter him. Pay your bills on time. And the next time he fixes your car, ask him to take a few minutes to see what else will need repair soon.

 

  • The repair costs more than the car is worth. A $1,500 engine rebuild that keeps your '83 Toyota on the road still makes good financial sense. It's at this point, however, that all but the flintiest drivers begin to think about upgrading.

 

Which brings us to our next question:

Am I ready for a newer car?

Your first step is to do nothing except write a check to yourself in the amount you're thinking you can afford every month. Put aside a car payment every month for three months (long enough for at least one of life's little emergencies to crop up).

 

To pass the time, make three phone calls: one to your bank, to find out what kind of rates they charge on loans to people with your credit history; one to your insurer, to ask the rates for comprehensive insurance on a model you think you'd like to buy; and one to your local DMV, to see what registration and licensing would cost.

At the end of three months, ask yourself these questions:

  • How much did it hurt? If you skimped at all on other bills or shorted the amount of the payment, you're not ready.

 

  • Would I have enough left over to pay for insurance and licensing fees each year?

 

  • Would I pay this much every month for the car that's in my driveway already? Sooner or later, every new car becomes an old car, and you'll feel about the next car just the way you do about your old clunker.

 

  • Would I rather have the cash? Our typical car payment, $475, adds up to more than $1,400 in just three short months. Perhaps you'd prefer to get a tan in Mexico and limp along with ol' Betsy another year.

 

  • Could I continue to save for another year and simply pay cash? Six grand would buy any of hundreds of reliable used models. Save for two years and you're approaching new-car territory, if your old car will fetch a few thousand.

 

If the craving for a shinier car hasn't passed in three months, at least you begin the shopping process with a few months' worth of car payments and a more realistic idea of the hit your wallet will take.

Side note: Never skimp on maintenance

Pay special attention to the things that will cost you a fortune if they break. That means making regular oil changes, tire rotations and transmission tune-ups, even if the car is running fine. Timing belts, for example, are spendy at $600 or more, and replacing one for no other reason than that the odometer has turned 90,000 miles might seem wasteful. But let one break and you'll find that repairing bent valves could cost you three times that. Replacing torn CV boots, those plastic housings that keep grime and grit out of the car's constant-velocity joints, costs about a third as much as a CV joint repair. (If your owner's manual is long gone, MSN Autos has a free online service, My Car, that tracks your car's service schedule.)

 

Des Toups is senior editor at MSN Money in Seattle.

Last Updated on Sunday, 28 February 2010 21:29
 


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